K2 CLIMBERS GUIDE

Overview

Every year, Everest draws attention from the entire world. Climbers scale the worlds tallest mountain virtually before an audience of millions, those following the quests on their home computers.

 As Everest close down, some time around the end of May, another drama unfolds. This is the Karakorum season opening in Pakistan and China. Usually far from the eyes of the international media, the worlds foremost climbers assemble here in June and July, to climb the worlds toughest alpine peaks. The crown of those is named K2.

K2 Covered in Clouds

 Dubbed the "Savage Mountain," K2 in the Himalayas is Earth’s second-highest peak and arguably the hardest climb in the world. With a 8,611-meter (28,250-foot) summit, routes that are steeper and more difficult than those to the top of Everest, and surrounding weather that is significantly colder and less predictable than on Everest, reaching the top of K2 is the equivalent of winning the Olympic gold in mountaineering.

 It was first summitted in 1954 by two Italians: Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. Since then, there have been 189 summits (compared with approximately 1400 on Everest). Forty nine climbers have died on K2, twenty-two while descending from the summit. In terms of the number of accidents that happen on the descent, it is the most deadly mountain in the world. The statistics for female climbers are particularly dramatic. Some even say K2 is "cursed" for women. Five women have reached the top, but of those 5, three died on the descent. (The other 2 have since died on other 8,000-meter peaks.)

Situated in the middle of an isolated paradise, it is thought to be part of the fictional Shangri-La that James Hilton wrote about in Lost Horizon. This remoteness adds to the beauty, but it also increases the danger. If anything goes wrong on the mountain – even at Base Camp – it is almost impossible to be evacuated by helicopter. On the north side of the mountain, climbers are stranded for six weeks during the peak of the season, when the rivers in the Shaksgam Valley flood and cannot be crossed by the camels who accompany teams on the journey in.

K2 Expidition

 In spite of the dangers, the mountain continues to lure climbers to it´s slopes of dark gray rock. It is the ultimate fear and as such must be faced and overcome by climbers aiming for alpine excellence. In scaling Everest, you are a great climber to the world. Summit K2, and you are a true climber to climbers.

 K2 is the jealous king to Sagarmatha (Everest) the Mother Goddess. It is an unforgiving, handsome and mighty mountain. If the Kings crown is what you came for, be prepared to risk it all.

                                                                                                                                                      

K2 SHOULD NOT BE THE FIRST EXPERIENCE...

K2 should not be your first 8000er. In order to have a fair chance of success and survival, you need prior practice. For Everest, good starts are Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Shisapagma, Aconcagua, MountMcKinley or GII.

 For K2, a great experience is gained at Everest, Makalu, Manaslu, Gasherbrum 1, Broad Peak and the likes.

Practice small mountains before K2

 Most accomplished climbers leave K2 in the end line of their climbs of the other Himalayan giants.

K2 will require a great deal of self-reliance, altitude experience, rope- and climbing skills as well as managerial competence to lead and organize alpine expeditions.

 Some of the peaks in Karakorum are well crowded, frequented by commercial expeditions. There are no commercial expeditions at K2; except for loosely knitted permit-sharing expeditions consisting of climbers mostly doing their own thing.

Practice will make you perfect

 If you are a novice to climbing, read up on the basics at MountEverest.net Point Zero. There you will learn about becoming a climber, getting in shape and raising the funds. Getting ready for Everest requires around 2-3 years of diligent climbing. The equivalent should have you ready for K2 in about 3-5 years starting at armchair level.

 You have the time however. Age is no problem in the mountains. Most ace climbers are in their 40s and 50s, this figure changing upwards every year.

                                                                                                                                                        

Paper work and Permission from Govt of Pakistan

 To climb K2 from the Pakistani side, it is necessary to apply for permission from the Ministry of Tourism in Islamabad. The peak fee for south side expeditions is 12,000 USD for a team of up to 7 climbers, and 2,000 USD for each additional climber.  For 2003 & 2004 the royalty has been decreased by 50% to celebrate the Golden Jubilee of Nanga Parbat & K2. It means for this year the royalty for K2 is 6000 USD for 7 climbers & 1000 USD for each additional climber.

The PTDC has Tourist informaion centers in all
Major cities of Pakistan from where you can
Take informatin and help

Likewise, royalty for Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II is 9000 USD for a team of 7 and 1500 USD for each additional climber.  For 2003 & 2004 the same 50% discount is available for these peaks.  With the discount it comes to 4500 USD for 7 climbers & 750 USD for each additional climber. The same discount is valid for all peaks above 6000 meters.

In addition to the peak fee, you will need to put up a 6,000 USD rescue bond (completely refundable if it is not used), and a 200 USD environmental fee. K2 is approximately 50 Km. from Indian boarder so you will be required to travel with a Pakistani Army "Liaison Officer" (L.O.), and each expedition would provide his allowances & equipment etc.   A reasonable budget for a mid-size team (without gear) is 8,000 USD per climber. For simply trekking to Base Camp, a reasonable budget is 3,000 USD per trekker.

Although the Ministry of Tourism can be contacted directly, it is advisable to hire an agent in Islamabad to assist with delivering paperwork to the Ministry, the customs hall, and other agencies.

 The first Pakistani climber to climb K2, Ashraf Aman, owns and operates a company called Adventure Tours Pakistan. His contact information is as follows:

 Phone: +92-51-2260820, 2252759, 2264253

Fax: +92-512264251

 Mobile:  +92-333-510-5671

 E-mail:    enquiry@atp.com.pk

 Web:  http://www.atp.com.pk/

Remember that the prime climbing season on K2 is June through August. Permits must typically be secured by November (via a 1,000 USD deposit), although some exceptions have been allowed.

The designated Rules from the Ministry can be read here. . .

                                                                                                                                           

Transportation from Pakistan side

Unlike many of the other 8,000-meter peaks, K2 is so remote that it is not visible from any inhabited place. The nearest village on the south (Pakistan) side of the mountain is Askole, approximately 6-8 days from Base Camp. The nearest town with medical supplies and a phone is another 8-10 hours (via jeeps which must be prescheduled), so it is advisable to consider bringing a satellite telephone.

Northeren Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO)

 The Pakistan side of the mountain is the more frequently visited side, but you can still expect a limited number of climbers – in a "low" season there will be as few as 20, and a "peak" season will see only approximately 40-50. This is due primarily to the difficulty of the mountain.

 The trek to BC takes around 8 days and there are no tea houses on the way. You camp out in tents and own cooking is required. The gear is carried by porters, those - as opposite to Everest sherpas - preferring drums to North Face bags or other soft packs. The porters allow 55 lbs each, charging USD 8/day or USD 64/load coming in and out (plus tips 10-20%).

                                                                                                                                           

Food, Gear, Tent and other Requirments

 Karakorum specifics:

Bring all you can from home where you can also purchase all your requirments from Pakistan.

Gear bag

Snow plates are used for anchors at K2. Bring them with you, so that you do not feel any difficulty in Pakistan.

Hooks Ropes etc

Ropes, ropes…Check up on the expeditions in the profiles at "cool expeditions" on this site. Large amount of ropes and anchors are regularly carried for the climbs. Korea/Park brought 4000m/14000ft for K2. You will probably share the task of rope fixing with others, but are best of carrying your own supply anyway.

The One Sport company has been aquired by Millet - boots still looks the same but the brand tag is different.

There are no tea houses on the trek up. Count on food supply to get in and out of the mountain plus bring lots of goodies for the rest periods. You´ll need all the comfort food you can possibly imagine.

On Everest, it is easy to get the occasional fresh bread, veggies and even beer from nearby villages. Forget that on K2. Learn to  bake your own bread (chapati style in a pan for instance) and give the food planning ample attention before you leave home. Nothing will be more important to you than good food after some time. 

The Survival food kit

BC will be your home for a long time with small chance to escape down the valleys for R&R. Make your BC tent a comfy home. It should be spacious, bright and relaxing. Bring sound blasters for music, magazines, games, a guitar or all else you can think of to make life on the rocks easier. Large brand dome tents are superior. They are also a fortune (approx USD 5000). Negotiate sponsorship or bring a cheap, strong "camping-style" tent with windows and all.

                                                                                                                                           

People

The Baltis

There is a great section on climbing porters at MountEverest.net. The Sherpas are much alike their less famous equivalents in the Karakorums; the Baltis.

The Balti K2 climbers

Just as the Sherpas of the Khumbu Valley, the Baltis of the Karakorums are much appreciated by the climbers. The porters work with you; sometimes they even die with you. Be good to them and check The Sherpas for guidance.

 There is another section on the site describing the climbers. It goes for all altitude climbing so check it out at Fellow climbers. In the Karakorums, there are however some differences that you will encounter.

Fellow climbers at K2

In the Everest Himalayas, it is possible to meet all kinds of climbers. Alpine aces climb side by side of alpine novices as human dreamers crowd to ascent the tallest mountain of them all.

A group Of local and Foreign climbers 

In the Karakorums, the situation is strikingly different. One after the other, climbers emerge from nowhere, attempting their 10th, 11th or last of the Himalayan crown; all the 8000rs of the earth.

A single summit of Everest suddenly seems bleak in the face of climbers counting out Kanchenjunga, Nanga Parbat, Makalu and other giants for the breakfast "chai".

That doesn´t mean that the politics and interactions with fellow climbers differ from the ones on Everest. It is still the same egos, lack of law, good guys and bad guys surviving together against all odds in a volunteer war.

It´s just that the human nature will be tougher in the Karakorums. There will be the resolute Russians, the proud Spaniards, the intrepid Koreans. There will be more risk taken, more honor gained but most of all - countless more climbing tales to be shared in the dark, cold tents.

If you are well liked, you will be offered Russian horsefat from a tube, Mexican honeycomb cookies or Netherland sweet oatbread baked by somebody's mom. There will be the fierce spice paste in a glass jar brought from Kazakstan or even American cheese cake made from the local goat/camel/yak cheese.

You will chat with the most skilled climbers on the planet. Watch treats crumble in the beards of wild men with fiery eyes. Meet women living lives far from the ordinary. You will listen to the sagas of the mountains, tales of bravery whispered out of sleeping bags, hopes and fears shared in all the languages of our world.

With this experience of mutual struggle and glory faced together with strangers, in this place of the most remote coordinates in the world, you will probably find that the summit becomes of lesser importance. Instead, you might discover that we are all the same really, making the human kind just an endless family of brothers and sisters.

Group of Climbers in Tent

Hanging on a steep slope, clinging to the edge of a black rock face in a roaring wind, you will not be able to distinguish friend from enemy on the mountain. You will both be just  humans, tied to the same rope, saving each other's lives without a word. That will be the golden crown of K2 that you will carry in your heart for the rest of your life.

                                                                                                                                           

Survival Methods

Dangers in K2

One of the factors that makes K2 so challenging is the sustained technical difficulty. It is sustained often described as a cone of ice and limestone, and has slopes of 45 degree angles or more. Climbers typically fix up to 2,500 meters of rope on the south side routes, and up to 5,000 meters of rope on the north ridge route. Because high-altitude porters are rarely employed, all of the work of carrying and setting the ropes and high camps must be done by the climbers themselves.

Climber rescued by pak army
during an accident on k2

On Everest, there are typically 2 four or five day weather "windows" during the spring climbing season. Although K2 is almost impossible to climb  without being caught in life-threatening weather, the best months to climb are June, July and August. The sudden storms are caused in part because the peak is so much higher than the mountains around it -- it juts up into the upper layers of the atmosphere and like a rock in a river can create eddies in the jet stream, with good weather on one side of the mountain, and life-threatening conditions on the other.

The statistics

There are fourteen "8,000ers" – fourteen mountains above 8,000 meters high that of course represent the 14 highest points on planet Earth. The following list of statistics was provided in February, 2001 by Xavier Eguskitza, the renowned Basque chronicler of Himalayan climbing.  Although K2 is listed 3rd in the rank of danger, this is factoring in the total number of deaths.

Mr. Eguskitza points out, "If we consider the number of deaths coming down from the summit, K2 is by far the most dangerous, about 3 times more so than Annapurna. The problem on K2 is that if you reach the top, your chances of returning are significantly reduced."

Know how to survive on K2

In order to survive K2 you will need luck and skill. You´ll have to know your medicals, the altitude aids and altitude problems.

Read up well, start with the MountEverest.net sections and then practice. There will be limited possibilities for rescue or medical attention on K2.

You´ll have to know how to stitch somebody up, general first aid and all in all how to be entirely self reliable in many life threatening areas in order to save yourself, your porters or fellow climbers. Do your homework, your life might depend on it.

Oxygen

You don’t need the Everest face mask on K2. The Khumbu cough doesn’t exist here. You might however choose to bring oxygen. Although K2 is listed as a "no-oz" mountain, many skilled climbers have summited it using oxygen. Park from Korea is bringing it, Rob Hall used it, if you do  too you’ll be in great company.

Get the right bottles from Poisk, along with unused oxygen gear. K2 is only slightly lower than Everest, the climb is hard and the barometric pressure is said to be lower then that of Everest at the base of the mountain. If you feel uncertain about your no-oz abilities, don’t hesitate to bring it and use it

                                                                                                                                           

The Rout From The Pakistan side

First climbed by Italians in 1954, this is the closest to a "normal" route on  K2, but is still very difficult and statistically the most dangerous.  The route starts with approximately 1000 m of climbing on loose scree (bring a helmet!) with significant danger of rocks falling from Camp 1 and above.

App possible routes you may follow

C16050 m (20000 ft)

C1 is exposed but relatively secure, with little or no history of avalanche danger.

The climb to C2 includes a 50-meter off-width crack called House’s Chimney which is currently a spider’s web of old ropes.

C2 6700 (22000 ft)

C2 is sheltered by a large rock, but can get extremely windy and cold. C2 to C3 is the most technical section of the climb, with approximately 400 meters of vertical and near-vertical climbing on mixed rock and ice in a region known as the "Black Pyramid."

C3
7200 m (23500 ft)

At the top of the Black Pyramid, C3 is traditionally placed on the Shoulder. Although this is more horizontal terrain (approx. 30 degree snow fields), it is prone to avalanche danger and extremely high winds funneling between K2 and Broad Peak. Consider stashing camp equipment just below in the Black Pyramid; many climbers are forced to descend when they discover  that their C3 has been destroyed by avalanches. C3 to C4 is a long snow slog up the Shoulder, typically accomplished without fixed lines.

The primary danger in this area is the collapse of large sections of the Shoulder (you can sometimes feel the slope settling under you). Fixed lines are not going to protect you from the huge avalanches that happen when a section of the Shoulder rips, so you’re better off travelling fast and light.

C4 7600 m (25000 ft)

C4, at anywhere from 7600 to 7900 meters on the Shoulder, is still a solid 16-22 hours from the summit, so you should start brewing immediately (don’t spend too much energy building a platform, you won’t have time to sleep anyhow).

Summit 8611 m (28250ft)

Most climbers leave between 10 p.m and 1 a.m. for the summit. Consider bringing a thin line (4-5mm) for the Bottleneck, a 100-meter narrow couloir  at 8300 meters that is 80-90 degrees. If it is windswept and cold, the ice in this couloir can create extremely challenging, sustained climbing. At least 10 of the climbers who have died on K2 lost their lives in the Bottleneck.

North East Ridge.

First climbed by Rick Ridgeway, John Roskelly, Lou Reichardt, and Jim Wickwire in 1978, this is a long snowy rib starting at the head of the Godwin-Austen Glacier that leads to a difficult, extremely corniced ridge. The ridge is followed to 7,900 meters, where the route then traverses the East Face and finishes on the Abruzzi Spur.

South-South-East Spur

First climbed by a Basque team in 1994, this variation to the Abruzzi Spur is possible the "safest" way up the mountain. The Spur joins the Abruzzi route at C3 on the Shoulder.

South West Pillar (The "Magic Line")

Dubbed "The Magic Line" in a widely publicized pre-expedition tour, Reinhold Messner took one look at this route in 1979, called it "suicidal", and switched to the normal Abruzzi route. It was climbed in 1986 by a Polish team, and is still the hallmark of "suicidal" excellence, with exceptionally hard, steep sections of icy rock at very high altitudes.

South Face (The "Polish Route")

If you are not afraid of avalanches, this is the route. With extreme serac avalanche danger in the lower section, a curved gully (the "Hockey Stick") that crosses prime snow slab terrain, and constant spindrift avalanches in the upper portion of the route, this route is not for everyone.

West Ridge

Starting from a Base Camp on the distant Negrotto Glacier, this route gains the ridge crest at about 5800 meters. The primary challenge is route finding through chaotic bands of rock and snowfields, and setting fixed lines at high altitudes while traversing the West Face.

                                                                                                                                           

A Timeline of Human Activity on K2 

Sir Martin Richard Cnway

1856 K2 was named by TG Montgomerie of the Survey of India as he logged peaks in the Karakorum as "K1, K2, K2…" etc. as viewed from My Haramukh in Kashmir. Because K2 was not prominently visible from any of the trading routes in the area, it did not have a common local name at the time in India. In China, it was known simply as "Qogiri" (pronounced "Chogori"), which means "Great Mountain."

1892  British explorer W Martin Conway led a scientific mountaineering expedition to the Baltoro Glacier, and reached a point now known as "Concordia" about 8 hours from the base of K2.

1902  An international expedition led by O Eckenstein reached the base of K2 on the north side (China), and climbed the North East Ridge to a height of 6525m (21,400 ft).

1909  An Italian expedition led by Luigi Amedeo di Savoia, the Duke of Abruzzi, reached the base of K2 on the south side (Pakistan), and climbed the South East Ridge (now known as the Abruzzi Spur) to a height of 6250m (20,500 ft). Victorio Sella, the photographer of the expedition, took photographs of the mountain that still rank among the most famous ever.

1938  An American expedition led by Dr Charles S Houston reach 7925m(26,000ft) on the Abruzzi Spur.

1939  An American expedition led by Fritz Wiessner set a new altitude record on the Abruzzi Spur by reaching 8382m (27,500ft).

1953  Another American team led by Dr. Charles Houston reached 7900m on the Abruzzi Spur. Team member Art Gilkey was lost in an avalanche during a valiant effort to help him descend from a high camp with serious altitude-related complications.

This was the year of team member Peter Schoening's legendary feat in saving the lives of a rope team of six men by single-handedly holding their weight.

1954  First ascent! An Italian expedition led by Professor Ardito Desio reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur using supplemental oxygen.

1977  Second ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Ichiro Yoshizawa reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur. In addition to using bottled oxygen, this team employed "siege" tactics, with 1500 porters and 52 members.

1978  Third ascent. An American expedition led by Jim Whittaker reached the summit on the south side via the Polish North East Ridge, traversing to the Abruzzi Spur at 7,700 meters. There is some debate about who the first climber to reach the top of K2 without supplemental oxygen was. American Louis Reichardt was first, as he ditched his oxygen on the way because it didn't work. John Roskelley summited after Louis, but never had oxygen to begin with. The question with Reichardt is if his oxygen bottle really didn't work and how soon he dumped it.

1981 Teruo Matsuura led a successful attempt on the South-West ridge. On August 7th Eiho Ohtani and Nazir Sabir (from Pakistan) reached the summit making the first ascent of this route.

 1982 A Japanese expedition led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugu Konishi were the first to reach the summit from the north (Chinese) side. Seven members of the team reached the summit, all without bottled Os. In the same year, a large Polish expedition led by Janusz Kurczab attempted the unclimbed North West Ridge without a permit, but were ordered down from 8200 meters when they were observed from the Chinese side.

1986 Three women - Wanda Rutkiewicz of Poland, Julie Tullis of Britain, and Liliane Barrard of France - became the first 3 women to stand on the summit. Unfortunately, Julie and Liliane died on the descent. This season later became known as the "worst summer on K2", with a total of 13 deaths. All three women were climbing without supplemental oxygen.

1987  Base on new satellite data, rumors circulated that K2 was actually slightly higher than Everest. Italian Professor Ardito Desio organized surveys of K2 and Everest, which reaffirmed Everest's superiority and provided further proof (in mountaineer's minds) of divine injustice.

1990  A new route (the North West Face) was established on the north side by a Japaenese expedition led by Tomaji Ueki. The route joined the existing North Ridge route at 8,000 meters, but covered significant new terrain on the North West Ridge and the North West Face.

1991  French climbers Pierre Beghin and Christophe Profit followed the North-West Ridge, diagonally traversed the North-West Face, and then reached the summit via the Japanese North Ridge route. Although they covered very little new terrain, the ascent was significant because they climbed the top portion of the route in alpine style, without the use of fixed ropes or fixed camps.

There have been repeated attempts on new routes, and several new national ascents, but there have been no international "firsts" on K2 very repeatedly.

Hassan Sadpara: 

Hassan Sadpara, adventurer from a small village, named Sadpara, 7 kilometres from Skardu. He is the first Baltistani to have climbed six eight-thousanders: K2 (8611m), Gasherbrum I (8080m), Gasherbrum II (8034m), Nanga Parbat (8126 m), Broad Peak (8051m), and Mount Everest (8848m). He climbed all six without supplemental oxygen.

Hasan Sadpara (The first pakistani
Who climbed Everest, K2 and
Many 8000ers)

“We climbed K2 together on 27 July 2004 and we hoisted the Pakistani flag on Gasherbrum 1 on 22 July 2006. It is a world record that we both scaled G1 and G2 within the span of a week,” says Hasan Sadpara.

For a complete timeline and record of ascents through 1995, please consult Robert Mantovani and Kurt Diemberger's book, "K2: Challenging the Sky" (The Mountaineers, 1995)

                                                                                                                                           

Future Climbing

So, there you are, you won the Kings Crown; and survived! You are a K2 summiteer.

Now what? You might choose to retire for only the occasional golf tournament, sipping cocktails in the garden, impressing everybody with your tales of the impossible.

See You in Peacefull Pakistan

After a while though, that might bore you mad. If you are the impossible, restless kind; one of those strange human dreamers thriving only on high adventure, solitude and challenge - here are some new horizons for you!

Despite a hundred-year history of expeditions, K2 still presents many significant mountaineering challenges. Here are some ideas:

The mountain still awaits a true "alpine-style" ascent, from bottom to top without the aid of fixed camps, fixed ropes, or bottled oxygen.

 There has been no traverse linking the obvious North Ridge and Abruzzi Spur routes.

There has been no winter ascent of any route.

Many of the ridge routes take significant deviations in line, so direct ascents are still open.

None of the West, North, or East Faces have had a direct ascent.

No one has completed a circumnavigation of K2.

Happy climbing!

Enjoy Visiting Pakistan 

Proudly Presented By Fawad Ahmad (The Adventurous)